Pelargonium is a genus in the family Geraniaceae with more than 250 species, most of which are found in Southern Africa and especially in the winter rainfall area. Some of them are geophytes with a subterranean stem tuber and often root tubers as well. Many of them are from very dry areas and may appear only in a year when there is adequate rainfall. They need to be grown in well-drained slightly acidic soil in an open sunny location. On this page we will only include the geophytic species.

Geraniums (actually Pelargoniums, botanically) are more expensive than most annual plants we grow in our yards. So, when cooler weather reminds us that fall is here and winter not too far behind, it's natural not to want to lose them all to frost -- especially if we plan to buy and plant more next year.

If you've never taken cuttings before, try pelargoniums as it's a straightforward technique, with guaranteed results. You can increase the volume of plants for your own garden or try swapping your cuttings for other plants with other gardeners.

Snip off short lengths of your favourite pelargonium in August and September. They'll root easily to make new plants in a few weeks.

Pelargoniums are usually grown as annuals, but with a little care, they can be carried through the winter using one of the methods described below:

Overwintering by taking cuttingsThis method is useful where there are large numbers of plants to overwinter; it suits soft-stemmed pelargoniums that cannot be kept in a semi-dormant state as per method 3.
Take softwood cuttings in late summer and discard the old woody plantsOnce the cuttings have rooted, they can be overwintered in trays of compost kept on a well-lit indoor windowsillWater the tray only sparingly in winter, allowing the compost to dry out between wateringStart feeding in late winter, giving a balanced liquid fertiliser every seven to 10 days according to the application instructions on the packetPinch out the shoot tips in late winter to encourage bushy growthPot up individually in mid-springHarden off and place outside once the risk of frost has passed

Overwintering in containers under glassThis method is useful where there are only small numbers of plants to overwinter and space in the glasshouse or conservatory to keep them.
Lift and pot those growing in the soil before the first autumn frosts. Cut them back to 10cm (4in) at this time. Use John Innes No 1 potting compost Keep the plants in their pots over winter, in a light, frost-free positionVery little water is needed until growth resumes in springRe-pot into John Innes No 2 potting compost in mid-springHarden off and place outside once the risk of frost has passed

Overwintering in a semi-dormant stateThis method is only suitable for varieties with tough woody stems, but is useful where there are large numbers of plants to overwinter.
Lift plants from the ground or pot and shake off excess soil or compost from the rootsAllow the foliage and stems to dry off in a frost-free place and then wrap the plants in newspaper or hang them upside down from the shed roof (which must be frost-free)Plants which survive and show signs of growth in early spring should have their roots soaked in water for a few hours before being potted up cut back to about 10cm (4in)

Geraniums are easily grown from seed. This is an excellent way to aquire a collection of different varieties.If you have a favorite plant that you want to preserve, Geraniums are also easily cloned by taking and rooting softwood cuttings.Take your cuttings in September from healthy plants which have been kept rather dry for a couple weeks.Use a clean, sharp knife and make a cutting 3" to 4" in length from the growing tips.Trim off the lower leaves from the cutting, and stick it into a coarse, sandy medium in small pots or in flats.Water well, then place them in a warm spot in indirect light.Do not allow the cuttings to dry out!
After roots are formed in 2-3 weeks, move the new plants into full sun and water only enough to keep them from shriveling.Fertilize with a weak solution of liquid fertilizer every two weeks.



The Bougainvillea is an immensely showy, floriferous and hardy plant.  Virtually pest-free and disease resistant, it rewards its owner with an abundance of color and vitality when it is well looked after.  The bougainvillea’s versatility is legendary.  It can be coaxed into a small manageable pot plant or a sizeable tree, to spread itself vertically on a wall, or climb up a trellis and form a luscious crown or burst forth into graceful arches.  It makes one of the best hedges, bushes, and curb-liners.  And as for bonsai or topiary purposes, it has few equals, lending its complex branching to the pruning shears, which promote even more unique and graceful forms.  It is probably true to say that without the bougainvillea, our roads, parks, and private gardens would be a lot less colorful that what we see today.  Almost everywhere we go, its brilliant hues and cheerful bursts punctuate the lush green mantle that cloaks our tropical environment.  Other flowering plants certainly pale in comparison.


In 1768 when Admiral Louis de Bougainvillea began his long journey to the Pacific Ocean and discovered the vine that now bears his name, it was a botanical highlight of the voyage. Through the ensuing years, this Brazilian beauty has assumed its rightful place as one of the most popular, spectacular and beautiful tropical plants. The modern day hybrids of Bougainvillea spectabilis (B. Brasiliensis) and B. glabra are among the most beautiful of flowering vines. These tropical members of the Nyctaginaceae (Four-O'Clock) family, are very vigorous, evergreen, woody vines with spines. Although normally climbers, they can be trained to stay bushy as pot plants, hanging baskets, or as standard 3 or 4 feet high. They will bloom beautifully on branches on 18"-20" long. Keep all long shoots cut back to 18"-20" for best bloom. The vibrant color of this vine comes not from the small white tubular flowers, but from the 3 large paper-like bracts that surround each flower.

Species and Hybrids
Bougainvillea spectabilis is a large climber with distinctive curved thorns, and hair on stems and leaves.  The bracts are crinkled, fairly large, egg-shaped, and possess colors in the rose, rusty-red, and purple.  Flowers are cream in color, slender, with very hairy tubes.  Leaves are large, ovate to rounded, leathery in texture and hairy underneath.  The bark is pale and corky.  Branching is close and short, giving rise to a very dense plant.   The first species collected, it was described from dried specimens by Willdenow (1798).

Bougainvillea glabra has thinner branches that spread in many directions and have distinctive pointed triangle-shaped bracts that come in a range of whites, lilacs, mauves, and purples.  Thorns are short, thin, and curved at the tips.  Leaves are fairly evenly elliptical, widest about the middle.  The small cream flowers are relatively big and tube-shaped.  The also tend to flower virtually continuously, and often down the entire length of the branch.  Originally described and named by Choisy (1849).

Bougainvillea peruviana has a branching habit that is looser and more open.  This is a climbing, spiny, spreading shrub with greenish bark.  Thorns (spines) are thin, straight in youth and curved when older. Leaves are thin and ovate to broadly ovate.  The small roundish bracts, usually in light to dark magenta colors, are quite delicate to the touch, and are crinkly in appearance.  Flowering is recurrent after strong vegetative growth in response to dry weather.  This species was described and named by Humbold and Bonpland (1808).

Bougainvillea hybrids found today have been grouped into these three hybrid groups:

    B. x buttiana (glabra x peruviana)
    B. x spectoperuviana (spectabilis x peruviana)
    B. x spectoglabra (spectabilis x glabra)

Growing Conditions:

Light:
Full sun. Many growers move bougainvillea outside during the summer months.
Water:
Keep evenly moist during summer and nearly dry in winter. They bloom better with drier winter conditions.
Temperature:
Relatively hardy. They are able to withstand tropical high temperatures and cold down to the mid-40s.
Soil:
Well-drained potting mix with plenty of perlite.
Fertilizer:
Feed in summer with weak liquid fertilizer weekly, or use controlled-release fertilizer.

Propagation:
Use branch cuttings with a rooting hormone in the spring, with bottom heat provided. Bougainvillea are not easy to propagate by most home gardeners, so several attempts may be necessary.

Repotting:
Bougainvillea are rapidly growing, and in suitable outdoor environments, will quickly grow into small trees or large clumping shrubs up to 15 feet high. In containers, the idea is to control this growth by yearly repotting and root pruning in the spring. Once the plant is larger, repot every two years.

Varieties:
The basic bougainvillea is B. glabra. However, this plant has been extensively hybridized, so most bougainvilleas seen in garden centers are hybrids. Choose your bougainvillea based on its bract color and shape. All care requirements are similar.

Grower's Tips:
You will likely encounter one of two problems with your bougainvillea: lack of blooms, or too-rapid growth. If the plant is not blooming, cut back on watering for a few weeks. They naturally bloom in the spring and seem to bloom harder in drier years. Bougainvillea need to be trimmed to maintain their shape. However, be aware that they flower along their long branches, so aggressive pruning of new growth will reduce their color. The best approach is to prune in the autumn, after the growing season is complete, so it will bloom from next season’s new growth.



Dracaena is a native African plant that can be grown both indoors and outdoors. Dracaena is commonly found in tropical and sub-tropical regions of Asia and Central America. Dracaena is believed to be related to the family of lilies and is quite popular. Genus Sanseviera which is closely related to Dracaena has been classified under Dracaena in Kubitzki system. Dracaena is usually grown for their unique foliage and colorful looks. It is difficult to find a Dracaena with flowers as flowers never bloom on the plant. Outdoor Dracaena plants are easy to grow as they are tolerant to extreme weather conditions.

It is an evergreen, usually single-stemmed small tree that grows between 2-5 m tall. The bark is tan-coloured and patterned with leaf scars. The leaves are crowded towards the top of the stems and are glossy-green, leathery, strap-shaped and half drooping. They can grow up to 1 m long. Tall spikes of sweetly scented, tiny, yellow-green flowers occur on the plant during summer (from November to February). Beautiful orange berries follow these.


Distribution
Dracaena aletriformis occurs from Port Elizabeth eastwards to KwaZulu-Natal, Swaziland and into eastern and northern Gauteng. It has been found in a variety of habitats, most commonly in the shade of coastal dune forest and densely wooded ravines near the coast. Inland, it occurs mostly in deep shade along streams in evergreen montane forests but also in shady places in the dry bushveld, always in humus-rich soil. Most of the populations recorded so far grow in areas with either sandstone or quartzite. It is frequently found in dense stands.

The name Dracaena is derived from the Greek word drakaina = a female dragon, perhaps because the milky juice of Dracaena draco dries to a resinous powder used as a colorant, 'dragon's blood'. There is also a mythical explanation: Ladon, the hundred-headed dragon and guardian of the Garden of the Hesperides, was killed by Hercules (or Atlas depending on the version told) whilst collecting three golden apples to complete the eleventh of his twelve labours. Dragon trees sprung from where Ladon's red blood flowed out on the land. The alleged location of this fabled Garden is an island beyond the Atlas Mountains, which seems to point to the Canary Islands and D. draco as being the basis for this legend. The species name aletriformis means resembling the genus Aletris.

The genus Dracaena was described by Linnaeus (1767). It was originally placed in the family Liliaceae (lily family) but was later transferred to the Agavaceae (sisal family). Recently it has been placed in the Dracaenaceae (dragon tree family). There are some 120 species described in the genus, most of which are mainly distributed in Central Africa and Southeast Asia. South Africa has three recognized species, D. aletriformis, discussed here, D. mannii and D. transvaalensis, each of which occurs in totally different habitat types. Like aloes and palms, dracaenas are monocotyledons.

Growing Conditions:
Light: Relatively bright light.
Water: Allow the plants to dry between waterings, but not completely. These are more susceptible to root rot, so be very careful never to allow them to sit in water.
Temperature: They thrive between 65ºF and 80ºF. They will suffer if it gets too cold and cannot tolerate freezing.
Soil: Loose, well-drained potting mix.
Fertilizer: They have a lower need for fertilizer, so fertilizer lightly at the beginning of spring or twice a year with controlled-release fertilizer.
Propagation:
D. marginata roots easily from root tip cuttings—so easily that it’s often used in dish gardens and readily propagated by nurseries and retailers. It takes about three weeks for a cutting to sprout roots, and rooting hormone isn’t generally necessary.
Repotting:
Repot as necessary into larger pots, but since they grow so slowly, they might not need to be repotted more than every second or even every third year. Refresh potting soil annually with fresh soil to replace any that has compacted.
Varieties:
Although there are several varieties, the most commonly found include:

    D. marginata ‘Tricolor,’ which has dark red margins, green leaves, and an ivory stripe down the leaf center
    D. marginata ‘Bicolor,’ with red and green stripes
    D. marginata, the basic form with dark green leaves and thin red leaf margins

Grower's Tips:
D. marginata is not a difficult plant to care for indoors. Keep it on the dry and warm side, and give it plenty of light, and the plant should respond. Like other plants in its genus, D. marginata is sensitive to fluoride, which can cause discoloration. Water with distilled or nonfluoridated water. Although they are usually disease resistant, D. marginata are susceptible to scale, mealybugs and thrips.



Cycas revoluta, one of the most primitive living seed plants, are very unusual and popular ornamentals. A rugged trunk, topped with whorled feathery leaves has lead to the common name "Sago Palm", however it is actually related to conifer and Ginko trees - all cone bearing plants which trace their origins back to the ancient flora of the early Mesozoic era. Often called "living fossils", Cycads have changed very little in the last 200 million years. 

The Sago Palm is the most propagated and sold cycad in the world. It is seen in almost all botanical gardens, in temperate and tropical locations and in many areas of the world it  is heavily promoted commercially as a landscape plant. Unfortunately, its common name "Sago Palm" has obscured the fact that it is actually a cycad.  Other names for this species include the sago palm tree, the king sago, and, because of unfamiliarity with it, the palm cycad.


Cycas revoluta is one of the most widely cultivated cycads, grown outdoors in warm temperate and subtropical regions, or under glass in colder areas. It grows best in sandy, well-drained soil, preferably with some organic matter. It needs good drainage or it will rot. It is fairly drought-tolerant and grows well in full sun or outdoor shade, but needs bright light when grown indoors. The leaves can bleach somewhat if moved from indoors to full sun outdoors.

Of all the cycads, the Sago Palm is the most popular in horticulture. It is seen in almost all botanical gardens, in both temperate and tropical locations. In many areas of the world, it is heavily promoted commercially as a landscape plant. It is also quite popular as a bonsai plant. First described in the late 18th century, it is native to various areas of southern Japan and is thus tolerant of mild to somewhat cold temperatures, provided the ground is dry. Frost damage can occur at temperatures below −10 °C (14 °F) and there are several healthy plants that have been grown with little protection as far north as Nashville, Tennessee and Newport News, Virginia, both are in zone 7b. C. revoluta usually defoliates in this temperate climate, but it usually will flush (or grow) several new leaves by April. It does however require hot summers with mean temperatures of 30 to 35 °C (86 to 95 °F) for successful growth, making outdoor growing impossible in colder places such as northern Europe or the Northeast US, even where winter temperatures are not too cold. One disadvantage of its domestic use is that it is poisonous to animals (this includes humans).

Growing Sago Palms
Growing of Cycas revoluta is not difficult if simple rules are followed. First, do give ample root depth by picking a pot or container that is deep. By this I mean preferably a pot 16 inches deep or more (a smaller container can be used when the plant is small). It is quicker and easier to grow Cycas revoluta in the ground as opposed to a container. In general, Sago Palms need sun to grow well. In coastal areas, it is best to plant them in full sun. In more interior locations or desert localities, they still prefer good sun or at least part day sun. Growing the Sago Palm in the shade typically gives one lanky, stretched-out leaves that are weak. If in too much shade, this species can actually just stall and do nothing (such as refusing to throw any new leaves).
   

Sago producing suckers on trunk

The Sago Palm can be grown inside the house near a bright window. Like other cycads, they do not want to be over-watered. Let the soil dry out a bit before watering. Try to avoid overhead watering; this may cause rot and possibly total decay of the plant. The soil mix should be quick draining. The plants are quite cold hardy and can tolerate temperatures below 20° F. Overall, it is an available species that is quite versatile and easy to grow. It is usually free from pests but can occasionally get into problems with scale or mealy bug, which should be treated. Fertilizing with a balanced tropical fertilizer with microelements will usually suffice. Sagos typically throw a new set of leaves during the Spring or Summer.

Because the Sago Palm is grown so much commercially, it is not in any way threatened by extinction.  Some refer to it as the "palm sago" or "sego palm", but the true common name is "Sago Palm". First discovered in the late 1700’s, it is native to various areas of Southern Japan, it natively experiences mild to somewhat cold temperatures. It is commonly used as a potted plant and the size can be stunted if not given ample root room. For this reason, it is quite popular as a bonsai plant. It is not unusual to hear of potted specimens that are hundreds of years old. In general, the Sago Palm does much better and grows more quickly when planted in the ground. It prefers sandy, well draining soil.  For more information on sago palm care and "cycad babies" and how to remove them, go to page 2 below.



The name Agapanthus comes from the Greek agap, meaning love, and anthos, meaning flower, translating broadly as the flower of love.

Agapanthus is also commonly known as the Lily of the Nile, African Blue Lily, and African Lily. The genus, Agapanthus includes about 10 species. Agapanthus flowers bloom in large, round clusters or umbels of blue, white or violet-blue. The funnel shaped Agapanthus flowers grow at the end of a thick 2 to 4 foot tall stem. The Agapanthus clusters measure about 6 to 8 inches across.

Traits: Sun, Coastal, Rockery, Container

The 10 species in this southern African genus belong to the onion (Alliaceae) family but do not produce true bulbs, though their thickened fleshy roots perform much the same function. The plants in this genus are ideal for borders due to their narrow upright shape, and dwarf forms are superb in rockeries or containers. Although the various species seem quite distinct, some botanists now believe them to be just one very variable species. The genus name means flower of love, from the Greek agape, meaning love, and anthos, meaning flower, although the significance of the name is unclear. Agapanthus has been used medicinally for cardiac complaints.

Flowering Season: Summer

Facts About Agapanthus

Agapanthus is a showy, widely grown plant for its exotic blue or white flowers that bloom from late spring until the beginning of autumn, depending on the species.

The perennial Agapanthus grows from an underground rhizome each year.

The tender Agapanthus africanus species is evergreen while the hardier Agapanthus campanulatus species, coming from moister, mountain grasslands, have slightly smaller flowers and die down during winter and re-emerge again the following spring.

Agapanthus is suspected for causing hemolytic poisoning in humans, and the sap causes severe ulceration of the mouth.

Agapanthus contains several saponins and sapogenins that generally have anti-inflammatory (reduce swelling and inflammation), anti-oedema (oedema - swelling due to accumulation of fluid), antitussive (relieve or suppress coughing) and immunoregulatory (have influence on the immune system) properties.

Growing Agapanthus

Propagation of Agapanthus is generally done by division of the root clumps immediately after flowering. The Agapanthus plants produce attractive clumps of long, curved, shiny, green, strap-like leaves, which grow from fleshy, tuberous roots.

Growing Agapanthus from seeds is a slow process. Sow the seeds in the early spring. Fresh seeds germinate easily at 70-80 deg. F (20-25 deg. C) and usually within 3 to 8 weeks. However, it takes up to 2 to 3 months. Grow one in pots. It takes from 3-4 years before the plants flower.

Agapanthus plant needs a well-drained soil.
Agapanthus grows best in a moderately fertile soil. A soil that is too rich will promote soft lush growth that is prone to winter damage.
The Other requirement is a warm, sheltered position in full sun for most of the day.
In a hot climate area, Agapanthus will do better in partial shade.
Plant the Agapanthus rhizomes one inch (2.5 cm) deep and space 24 inches (60 cm) apart.
Keep plants well watered during the growing season to ensure success.
If a mealy bug or red spider mite becomes a problem in winter you may need to spray on an insecticide. Yellow leaf tips indicate waterlogged conditions.

Agapanthus Plant Care

Follow a regular watering schedule during the first growing season to establish a deep, extensive root system.
Water the Agapanthus when the top 3 in. of the soil is dry.
Agapanthus plants should be placed in full Sun.
For a neat appearance, remove old Agapanthus foliage before new leaves emerge.
Divide clumps every 2 to 3 years in early spring.




Coffea arabica is a species of Coffea originally indigenous to the mountains of Yemen in the Arabian Peninsula, hence its name, and also from the southwestern highlands of Ethiopia and southeastern Sudan. It is also known as the "coffee shrub of Arabia", "mountain coffee" or "arabica coffee". Coffea arabica is believed to be the first species of coffee to be cultivated, being grown in southwest Arabia for well over 1,000 years.

It is said to produce better coffee than the other major commercially grown coffee species, Coffea canephora (robusta), but tastes vary. C. arabica contains less caffeine than any other commercially cultivated species of coffee.

Wild plants grow to between 9 and 12 m tall, and have an open branching system; the leaves are opposite, simple elliptic-ovate to oblong, 6–12 cm long and 4–8 cm broad, glossy dark green. The flowers are white, 10–15 mm in diameter and grow in axillary clusters. The fruit is a drupe (though commonly called a "berry") 10–15 mm in diameter, maturing bright red to purple and typically contains two seeds (the coffee 'bean').

Characteristics
Fully grown, coffea arabica is between fourteen to fifteen feet tall and bushy (however, it should be noted that a properly pruned tree generally will not reach this height). It has dark-green, lance-shaped leaves, approximately three to six inches long. The underside of the leaves are substantially lighter than the top side.

The white and fragrant flowers of the coffea arabica tree grow in clusters in the axils of the leaves. Even on a single tree, the number of petals on a flower vary from blossom to blossom. In hot and dry conditions, the flowers are generally smaller and more numerous. However, if the conditions are too dry, the flowers will not bear as much of the fruit that will develop into the coffee harvest.

The cherries of the arabica coffee tree contain an elliptical pit which typically consists of two coffee beans. In rare cases, the pit may actually be made from three beans, however, a more common mutation occurs when there is only one coffee bean in a cherry. These beans are referred to as peaberry.

The number of times coffee may be harvested from an arabica tree varies widely and is dependent on factors such as the variety of the tree and the growing climate. A single tree typically produce from one to twelve pounds of coffee annually (although in rare instances, significantly more).

From these "live" seeds with the embryo out, you can attempt to grow a plant. I warn you, I tried about 50 times and only had one success! The problem is that from germination to a sprout takes 60 days! And there's a high chance your seed will simply rot in the meantime. But it is possible.

Growing:
The Arabica trees are generally considered more delicate than other species of coffee trees, especially Coffea canephora. They grow best at altitudes between 3000 to 6000 feet in a climate that does not experience freezing temperatures, yet does not reach extremes of heat). At lower elevations, these trees require shade from other trees to thrive, but this shelter is less necessary at higher elevations or in cooler climates.

The ideal temperature range for an Arabica tree is from 60 to 74 degrees fahrenheit (15 to 24° celcius). Above this range, the trees will not grow as well. Additionally, these trees are susceptible to frost, potentially losing both the leaves and the coffee cherries if the temperature is too cool. The growing climate should also have an average annual rainfall between 47 and 98 inches (1200 to 2500 millimeters). Soil for the coffee trees should be slightly acidic with good drainage.

Arabica trees are generally more susceptible to disease, particularly coffee rust. In the late 1800s, a large percentage of the arabica coffee trees were wiped out from coffee rust, to be replaced by hardier, but less palatable, species.

After three or four years, a coffee tree will begin to produce a harvestable crop, but they do not reach full production until six to eight years later. The tree's lifespan can exceed one-hundred years.

Reproduction:
Arabica trees reproduce by either seed or cutting. For both artificial and natural means, the most common method of reproduction is by seed. Natural propagation is mostly a result of birds consuming the coffee cherries and then spreading them once they pass through the bird's digestive tract. Eight week old seeds have a superior germination rate than do fresh seeds, succeeding in germinating 95% of the time within a thirty-two day period. Seeds stored more than 21 weeks at room temperature.




Abutilon is a large genus of approximately 150 species of broadleaf evergreens in the mallow family, Malvaceae. The genus includes annuals, perennials, shrubs, and small trees from 1–10 m tall, and is found in the tropical and subtropical regions of all continents. The leaves are alternate, unlobed or palmately lobed with 3-7 lobes. The flowers are conspicuous, with five petals, mostly red, pink, orange, yellow or white.

Common names include Abutilon, Chinese Bell Flower, Chinese Lantern, Mallow, Indian Mallow, and Flowering Maple (for the maple-like leaves of some species, although the genus is not related to the true maples). The generic name is derived from the Arabic word Abu Tilon.

Abutilon species are used as food plants by the larvae of some lepidoptera species including Yellow-banded Skipper (which feeds exclusively on A. avicennae) and Chionodes mariona.

Growing Abutilon
Dig a hole twice the size of the root ball. Add half top soil and half compost to the hole; mix in with your shovel. Water the soil well.

Remove the plant from its container. Gently separate the roots. Set the plant in the hole; position in the center of the hole with the top of the root ball even with the ground level. Be sure the best side of the plant is facing the direction you will see it the most.

Fill in the hole with the top soil. Pack down the soil. Place a layer of mulch around the base of the plant and water it well.
Fertilize in early spring. Use an all-purpose fertilizer with phosphorous P. Liquid fertilizer is the easiest to use, although granules will work. Avoid fertilizing in late summer during the growing season; this encourages new growth that may not winter over well.

Prune your abutilon plants back about 30-percent in late winter. This encourages new growth and blooms in the spring. Prune out dead twigs any time of the year.

Types of Abutilon:
Abutilon come in many varieties, with differences in plant size, leaf size and flower size and color.

Three popular types are:

Abutilon ‘Bella’ – A compact (dwarf) variety offering large, showy 3″ bell-shaped flowers in a wide range of pastel colors along with the characteristic maple-leaf shaped leaves. ‘Bella’ grows to a height of approximately 16″ and blooms continuously all summer. It prefers fulls sun and tolerates heat well. Abutilon ‘Bella’ is our preferred choice for indoor hanging baskets and hydroponic systems.

Abutilon ‘Maximus’ – Large bell-shaped blooms in shades of orange, red and yellow with darker veins, about 1-1/2 to 2″ wide. ‘Maximus’ hybrids grow to a height of 14″ to 36″ outdoors and make excellent border plants. Light pruning throughout the growing season will keep the plants from getting ‘leggy.’

Abutilon 'Maximus'

The leaves of Abutilon “Maximus” are sometimes variegated which can be quite striking; however, the variegation is actually due to a type of mosaic virus which does not hurt the plant in any other way. Some growers purposely cultivate infected plants for their pretty mosaic variegation. (If you like the variegation propagation is best accomplished through stem cuttings from a variegated plant since the virus is rarely passed on to the seeds.) Abutilon ‘Maximus’ is our preferred choice for outdoor containers, window boxes and planters.

Abutilon ‘Giant’ – Bell-shaped flowers in shades of pink, purple, apricot and raspberry. Abutilon ‘Giant’ can grow to a height of approximately 4 feet but can be kept compact when grown as a house plant. The leaves of ‘Giant’ are larger than those of the other two types mentioned, and the flowers are about 2″ wide.




Traits: Sun, Shade, Hedge,

Belonging to the woodbine (Caprifoliaceae) family, this genus contains around 30 species of evergreen and deciduous shrubs that are found in eastern Asia and Mexico. These beautiful ornamental shrubs provide a blaze of vibrant floral color throughout summer, and the deciduous species provide autumnal color. Most species do not exceed 6 ft (1.8 m) in height, so they can be used to great effect when planted as a low informal hedge, and look equally impressive when planted singly. The genus name honors Dr Clarke Abel (17801826), who corresponded with English botanist Sir Joseph Banks and served with the British embassy in China, where he wrote a book of naturalist observations.

Flowering Season: Summer, Autumn

Abelia is a genus of about 15-30 species and many hybrids in the honeysuckle family Caprifoliaceae Some authors, including the Angiosperm Phylogeny Group, considers Abelia and related genera to belong instead in the segregate family Linnaeaceae, also including such genera as Linnaea, Abelia, Dipelta, Kolkwitzia, and Zabelia, but not such others as Lonicera or Symphoricarpos, included by them instead in a more narrowly viewed Caprifoliaceae.

Abelias are shrubs from 1–6 m tall, native to eastern Asia (Japan west to the Himalaya) and southern North America (Mexico); the species from warm climates are evergreen, and colder climate species deciduous. The leaves are opposite or in whorls of three, ovate, glossy, dark green, 1.5–8 cm long, turning purplish-bronze to red in autumn in the deciduous species. The flowers appear in the upper leaf axils and stem ends, 1-8 together in a short cyme; they are pendulous, white to pink, bell-shaped with a five-lobed corolla, 1–5 cm long, and usually scented. Flowering continues over a long and continuous period from late spring to fall.

Type species of this genus is Abelia chinensis. The generic name commemorates Clarke Abel, a keen naturalist who accompanied Lord Amherst's unsuccessful embassy to China in 1816 as surgeon, under the sponsorship of Sir Joseph Banks. All of Abel's seeds and plants were lost in a shipwreck on the homeward voyage, however; living plants of Abelia chinensis were first imported to England in 1844 by Robert Fortune, who introduced A. uniflora the following year.

Growing abelia:
Plant in full sun or half shade in moist, acid soil. The shrub should be protected from cold winter winds, especially at the northern limits of its territory. It can be pruned in spring, since it blooms on new wood, although it looks best if pruned selectively rather than sheared.

Cultivation:
Although hardiness varies considerably, most abelias are not suitable in areas with severe winters. Plant in a position in sun or part-shade with moist, humus-rich, well-drained soil. Pruning should be undertaken to keep the plant looking tidy whilst maintaining its natural arching habit. Trim to shape in late winter or spring, removing the cane ends and also some of the basal shoots in order to allow room for new growth. Propagate from half-hardened or softwood cuttings.

Uses for abelia:
Its lacy appearance and long blooming season make it a good choice for a spot of honor in the yard. The abelia makes a good foundation and accent plant and combines well with broad-leaf evergreens. It is sometimes used as a hedge in the South. The plant attracts hummingbirds with its tubular blossoms.

Some species
• Abelia aitchinsonii
• Abelia spathulata
• Abelia speciosa
• Abelia biflora
• Abelia buddleioides
• Abelia dielsii
• Abelia engleriana
• Abelia fargesii
• Abelia floribunda
• Abelia forrestii
• Abelia integrifolia
• Abelia ionostachya
• Abelia macrotera
• Abelia mexicana
• Abelia mosanensis
• Abelia occidentalis
• Abelia parvifolia
• Abelia serrata
• Abelia tomentosa
• Abelia taihyonii
• Abelia triflora
• Abelia umbellata
• Abelia chinensis
• Abelia coriacea
• Abelia corymbosa
• Abelia curviflora

    

 

Area of origin and cultural areas - Native to tropical eastern regions, today it is grown both over the Asian continent (India, Ceylon, Indonesia) and in Central and South America (Mexico, Brazil); in Africa, the largest producing countries are Mozambique, Tanzania and Ghana. Etymology - The name Cocos probably derives from a Portuguese word meaning monkey, perhaps because its nut, bearing three germinating pores, resembles a monkey face. Its specific name derives from Latin, meaning nut-bearing (from fero = I bear and nux-nucis = nut).

 

Location
Coconut is a pan-tropical species usually found in humid coastal areas between latitudes 26 degrees north and south. The origin of this plant is uncertain, but many experts believe it's from the west Pacific and Indian Ocean islands. As it is not a palm for dry climates, it is typically encountered in the continental U.S. only in South Florida, and the extreme southern tip of Texas. Coconut palms are also occassionally seen in nominally frost-free micro-climates in Zone 9.

The coconut palm is a long-lived plant that may live as long as 100 years; it has a single trunk, 20-30 m tall, its bark is smooth and grey, marked by ringed scars left by fallen leafbases. The leaves, from 4 to 6 m long, are pinnate; they consist of linear-lanceolate, more or less recurved, rigid, bright green leaflets. The inflorescences, arising at leaf axils and enveloped by a carinate spathe, are unbranched spadices; female flowers are borne basally, male flowers at apex. Flowers bear lanceolate petals, 6 stamens and an ovary consisting of 3 connate carpels. Cross pollination, either anemophilous or entomophilous, occurs. Its fruit, as big as a man’s head and 1-2 kg in weight, is a drupe with a thin, smooth, grey-brownish epicarp, a fibrous, 4-8 cm thick, mesocarp and a woody endocarp; as it is rather light, it can be carried long distances by water while keeping its germinability for a long time. Inside it contains one seed, rich in reserve substances located in the endosperm which is partly liquid (coconut milk), partly solid (flesh). When its embryo germinates, its radicle breaks through one of the three germinating pores, visible from the outside as well.  

 

The coconut palm thrives on sandy, saline soils; it requires abundant sun light and regular rainfalls over the year.

 

The coconut palm is perhaps the widest-grown palm in the world, coconuts feature as one of the main sources of income for producing countries, in that a large number of different products utilised and appreciated in the western countries as well are made out of them. However, other parts of this plant are used too, notably its leaves to make baskets, roofing thatch etc., apical buds of adult plants are an excellent palm-cabbage, an alcoholic drink known as Toddy or palm wine is extracted from its sugar sap, tapped from the inflorescences by means of apposite cuttings. Coconuts are used as whole fruits or, conversely, by their parts: mesocarp fibres, milk, kernel (or flesh), husk.

 

 WARNING!
Most of us in the U.S. are familiar with the coconut palm from resorts in Florida and the Caribbean. Since falling coconuts can pose a serious (sometimes fatal!) health hazard to guests, they are often removed by resort managers hoping to avoid injuries and lawsuits.